The Helpful Stranger

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Samarkand self-guided walking tour

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Samarkand is a city full of emblematic and historical sites. As the third largest city in Uzbekistan, one of the oldest continually-inhabited cities in the world and best known as the capital of the Timurid Empire, there is plenty to see and do. Although they are geographically spread out, it is possible to cover all of the city’s main sites on foot in a single day. Alternatively, you can break this tour up into several days and spend longer at some of the major attractions. Either way, check out my Samarkand self-guided walking tour below!

Start at Alisher Navoi Central Park (Markaziy Park). This large, green park is a relaxing place in the centre of Samarkand. Here you can find a statue of the famous Timurid-era poet Alisher Navoi, as well as several buildings displaying an impressive Russian colonial-style architecture including the Museum of Friendship and Religious Tolerance

You can find some nice colonial-style buildings in the park

Head out of the park and south east on Abdurakhmon Jomiy Street and you will find the Church Of St. Alexius Metropolitan Of Moscow. This ornate Russian Orthodox church dates back to 1912, and is dedicated to Saint Alexius, a 14th century bishop who is considered one of the patron saints of Moscow. It is possible to enter the grounds and explore the small garden area, and on certain days it may be possible to enter the church itself although we didn’t do this.

The grand St. Alexius church

From the church, continue southeast on Abdurakhmon Jomiy Street until you reach the Monument to Confucius. A sign of friendship with China and Chinese students at the nearby university, this small square was created in 2019 and features Chinese-style pagodas, a large statue of the famous Chinese philosopher Confucius as well as bas-reliefs depicting Chinese proverbs.

After leaving the monument, head to the end of the road and turn northeast along University Boulevard. This tree-lined boulevard, a major thoroughfare, contains small sculptures along its central walking area and is a pleasant place for young people from the nearby Samarkand State University to congregate. At the end of University Boulevard, you can find the grand Statue of Amir Timur, a famous landmark in the city. You can often find locals and tourists alike taking pictures with the statue.

The pleasant walkway of University Boulevard

From the statue, turn southeast toward the Amir Timur Mausoleum (Gur-i Amir Complex). One of the most famous landmarks in Samarkand, this mausoleum contains the grave marker of the founder of the Timurid Empire as well as his successors Shah Rukh and Ulugh Beg. After paying the entry fee, you can access the complex which contains a small museum and the grave room. The gold and marble decoration is as exquisite as you would expect from an imperial burial site.

Be aware that the Timurids are actually buried in a crypt towards the back of the building, which is not accessible to the public (the tomb is said to be cursed, with great misfortune to be unleashed on the world when it is opened). Also be aware that this mausoleum can become extremely busy with tourists – if you have time, it’s best to come back in the evening for a less crowded experience inside. We found that 6pm was the ideal time to visit to avoid the crowds and have a more intimate viewing of the Mausoleum.

Gur-i Amir was originally a much bigger complex containing a mosque and madrassa as well

After visiting the main mausoleum complex, follow the small road to the east of the site which leads to the Aksaray Mausoleum. According to legend, other members of the Timurid family were buried here but their names have been lost to time. This small mausoleum can be accessed by paying a small fee to the caretaker, who will welcome you in. Inside, the mausoleum contains some fantastic ceiling decorations. You can also enter the underground burial chamber via a trapdoor.

Leave the Aksaray Mausoleum and head back north past the Gur-i Amir complex. You will find a small bazaar and Friday mosque, and will then come to the Rukhobod Mausoleum. This small mausoleum was built during the era of Amir Timur in honour of Burhan al-Din Sagarjia, a Sufi mystic who was responsible for encouraging the spread of Islam in northwestern China. The mystic’s family are also buried in the mausoleum. The mausoleum remains untouched and lacks the grandeur of some others, but it is one of the oldest original buildings in the city.

The ancient Rukhobod Mausoleum

From the Rukhobod Mausoleum, head southeast through Amir Timur Park. In this park, you can find QR codes with information about various gardens that were created by Amir Timur. Eventually, you will come to the Memorial of Samarkand’s Tigers. These statues have great significance; Caspian tigers previously occupied this region, but they were declared extinct in the 1950s as a result of the destructive industrial activities of the Russian Empire.

Continue northeast along Registan Street. On the right hand side, you will come to the Sadriddin Ayni House Museum. Considered the national poet of Tajikistan, Ayni is revered by Tajiks and a large park is named in his honour in Dushanbe. Despite his status in Tajikistan, Ayni was actually born in Bukhara and lived in Samarkand in this house. Today it is possible to enter for a small fee, the house has been preserved and contains some of Ayni’s personal articles although there is limited information in English.

Ayni’s House Museum is one of the lesser-known attractions of Samarkand

Continue along Registan Street to Registan Square. One of the most emblematic and famous sites of Uzbekistan, this large square containing three glorious madrassas is the focal point of the city of Samarkand. As well as admiring from the viewing platform, it is possible to buy a ticket in order to enter the square and explore the inside of the madrassas. The designs of the three madrassas are distinctive and unique both inside and out.

The Ulugh Beg madrassa, on the left hand side when facing the complex, contains a small museum. This is the oldest building in the complex, dating back to the 1420s. It is also possible to climb one of the minarets of this madrassa for a small fee.

The other two madrassas are from the Shaybanid era in the 1600s. The Sher-Dor madrassa on the right hand side when facing the complex is best known for the distinctive images of lions (which look more like tigers) chasing deer on its façade. Inside, this madrassa mainly contains craft workshops. The Tilla-Kari madrassa in the centre contains a spectacular golden mosque and some old photos of the complex.

Within the complex, you can also find the grave of a local man who was said to have fed the workers constructing the mausoleum for free in exchange for burial in the complex.

The famous Registan Square

Head east from Registan Square and you will come to a park with a large statue of Uzbekistan’s former dictator Karimov, who is buried in Samarkand. From there, head north along Ulitsa 8 Martra until you reach the Dahbedi Monument and Complex. A small mahalla centre (Islamic neighbourhood/community centre and mosque), this listed building illustrates a side of authentic Samarkand life away from the tourist crowds. There was nobody around when we visited but it was interesting to see this traditional house in the old town streets.

Dahbedi Complex, one of the more low-key stops on the tour

Continue past the Dahbedi complex and you will be at the back of the Bibi Khanym mosque. This huge mosque, built for the favourite wife of Amir Timur, is another emblematic symbol of Samarkand. The enormous structure was partially destroyed by an earthquake in the 1890s, killing worshippers inside. Entrance is paid, although be aware that unlike some of the other attractions in Samarkand, the ticket here lasts for several days so it is possible to return to visit several times.

Inside the courtyard you can find a large marble Qu’ran and see the old mosque area, which interestingly has not been restored. Across from the mosque you can also find a mausoleum for Bibi Khanym, which requires a separate ticket.

Next to the mosque complex is the Siyob bazaar. A relatively sanitised and touristy bazaar compared to many in Uzbekistan, this is nonetheless a good place to buy souvenirs or some cheap samsa for lunch.

After leaving the bazaar, head across the footbridge to the Hazrit Khizr mosque. Located on the side of a hill, this elegantly-decorated mosque offers great views of the nearby Bibi Khanym mosque and across the city. You can enter the courtyard and explore freely. The mosque is named after the revered Islamic figure Hazrit Khizr. Uzbekistan’s former dictator Karimov is also buried near here.

From the Khizr mosque, go down the hill along Shah-i-Zinda Street until you reach the Shah-i-Zinda complex. Another emblematic site of Samarkand dating back to the Timurid period, this complex contains rows of striking blue mausoleums, as well as a complex dedicated to the Prophet Muhammad’s cousin, Qusam, who was said to resemble the prophet in character and appearance. You can enter the various mausoleums and admire the stunning interior designs. Again, entry is paid and this area is busy with tourists, but it’s easy to see why.

Shah-i-Zinda is a busy place

Shah-i-Zinda or Hazrit Khizr Mosque are great places to watch the sunset. Alternatively, if you have time there are two more sites in this part of town. Be aware that both of these sites are centred around museums – make sure you leave enough time to visit before closing!

From Shah-i-Zinda, double back to the Hazrit Khizr mosque and head along Tashkent Road to find the Afrasiyab Museum. Focusing on the pre-Timurid history of Samarkand, the centrepiece of this museum is a magnificent Sogdian wall fresco dating back to the 7th century. Samarkand is one of the oldest cities in the world, and this museum is one of the few places in the city to find out about this history away from the overwhelming focus on the Timurids. Behind the museum you can also see the archaeological site of the original settlement, Afrasiyab.

You can find some impressive frescoes in the Afrasiyab Museum

After Afrasiyab, continue northeast along Tashkent Road and keep walking until you reach the Ulugh Beg Observatory. The third ruler of the Timurids and the grandson of Timur, Ulugh Beg was a scholar, academic and world renowned astronomer. This observatory was groundbreaking at the time. Ulugh Beg and his colleagues used the large sextant to chart the stars. Today, it is possible to see the sextant as well as the small museum about Ulugh Beg’s scientific pursuits. Entrance is paid.

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