Kyrgyzstan is a land of mountains, pastures and alpine lakes. A land so idyllic it wouldn’t be amiss on a Windows screensaver. With a unique nomadic history, Kyrgyzstan is sparsely-populated and lacks historical sights but is rich with scenery, tradition and culture. Formerly a far-flung part of the Soviet empire, the modernising Russian influence gave rise to some cities and infrastructure but has otherwise had relatively little impact on the local culture of the Kyrgyz people. Check out my Kyrgyzstan travel experiences below!
Bishkek, Karakol, Issyk Kul (Tosor), Kochkor, Song Kul Lake, Naryn, Tash Rabat, Sary Mogul & Sary Tash, Osh
The Kyrgyz people have for centuries adopted a nomadic lifestyle, moving with the seasons to take advantage of their abundant yet changeable landscape. For this reason, there aren’t many historical cities or ancient ruins in Kyrgyzstan. The few large cities that do exist today, such as Bishkek, Karakol and Osh, emerged during the Russian period from the late 1800s. This is evident in the city planning – you can find plenty of wide boulevards and monumental open squares. Statues of Lenin can still be found prominently displayed in some cities, and unlike neighbouring countries the Kyrgyz people are generally quite politically easy-going and ambivalent about their Russian colonial past. Compared to its neighbours, Kyrgyzstan has been politically stable since gaining independence in 1991.
This Lenin statue can be found behind the State Museum in Bishkek
Because of the nation’s nomadic traditions, the yurt is a sacred institution in Kyrgyzstan. It even features on the bright red flag of the country. Not only are yurts still a relevant and practical part of rural Kyrgyz life, you can even find yurts in graveyards. It is customary to leave the dead inside their yurt for three days as part of nomadic funeral practices.
The huge national flagpole in Ala Too Square, Bishkek
In Kyrgyzstan there still exists the traditional nomadic way of life with some modern twists.
Cattle-herders/shepherds gather in the jailoo (summer pastures) during the summer months to graze their livestock (sheep, goats, cows and horses mainly) before heading back to their village to spend the winter months hunkering down and escaping the bitter cold. These shepherds spend their summers in yurt camps in the rich, fertile pastures, tending to their flock often without electricity or many creature comforts.
These days, staying in a yurt camp is one of the biggest attractions for visitors to Kyrgyzstan, and also a significant source of income for the nomads. From bare-bones camps to tourist-oriented camps with phone chargers, flushing western-style toilets and even on-site guesthouses and showers in some places, there are many yurt camps around landmarks such as Song Kul, Tash Rabat and Sary Mogul. Staying in a yurt camp provides an escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, where nights are spent staring at the stars and sharing meals with the nomads or fellow travelers in a communal yurt. You can book a yurt stay via a local CBT (community based tourism organisation, basically a local travel agent), or via Booking.com or Airbnb. There is no phone signal in most of these yurt camps so be prepared to be incommunicado for the duration of your stay. The owners of the yurt camp offer meals at an additional cost as well as hiring a horse and guide for any treks in the local area.
Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp in Tash Rabat was especially idyllic
In a blending of the old and the new, it is possible to witness Chinese shipping containers bearing the name ‘Evergreen’ nestled in amongst the pastures – we found out that nomadic families now keep all of their yurts and equipment in storage during the winter to avoid the need to hire a truck and drive everything back to the village.
There’s a short window to visit Kyrgyzstan as the winters are very cold and summers are very hot. While the cities and lowland areas were still quite warm, we found that most of the yurt camps were either closed or closing by the end of September.
The traditional and cultural heritage of Kyrgyz people is evident even in the cities. While Bishkek and Osh are cosmopolitan, full of modern amenities and home to much of the nation’s youth, you can still see plenty of men wearing Kalpaks, the traditional felt hat. We were told that the style and markings on the hat denote status and family/tribal affiliations.
This Kyrgyz man sporting a kalpak was spotted at the airport in Istanbul
If you spend long enough in Kyrgyzstan you’ll probably hear about Manas, a mythical warrior whose life story intertwines with the history of the nation. Said to be loosely based on the real-life historical Kyrgyz leader Barsbek, Manas is the national folk hero of Kyrgyzstan and the subject of the longest epic poem in the world, classified as intangible cultural heritage for Kyrgyz people. The poem tells the story of the life and adventures of Manas, his son and grandson. In Kyrgyzstan there is a special status for those who can recite the whole poem from memory. To this day there are competitions to see who can recite the poem for the longest time, often lasting for more than 24 hours. We were lucky enough to see a recitation of a very short excerpt of Manas during our time in Karakol. It was fascinating to see firsthand how the poem is recited (chanted with great intensity) by those who have learnt it off by heart. At one point we were informed that the orator often goes into a trance-like state when reciting the poem, so much so that they lose track of time!
Another intrinsic feature of Kyrgyzstan is the horse. From riding to drinking fermented horse milk to consuming copious amounts of horse meat, the Kyrgyz are horse mad! You can find huge herds of horses blocking roads, grazing in fields and generally running amok in the countryside. If you’re a fan of horse-riding, it’s not hard to find 3-day, 5-day and even 10-day horse-treks around the more scenic areas of the country. Horses are an important part of everyday life, as well as transportation they’re used as a food source and to assist with the herding of cattle.
Song Kul Lake has an abundance of horses roaming the shores
Horsemanship is usually considered a masculine activity in Central Asia so be prepared for your ability to be underestimated if you’re female. I happen to be much more experienced with horse-riding than Dan but the male guides didn’t really seem to believe me a lot of the time and kept making sure I was okay. I was questioned by the host of our yurt camp in Song Kul as to why horse-riding was considered a more feminine sport in most of Europe.
In Kyrgyzstan it’s all about the kymyz! Kymyz is a fermented drink made from mare’s milk – yes, the milk of a female horse! It’s then left to ferment for a while and becomes slightly alcohol. It’s definitely an acquired taste – to me it tasted like the water in a packet of feta cheese. Strong and just a little cheesy. You can usually only find it during the summer season, although we managed to find some at the end of September in the market in At-Bashi. If you want to try kymyz, keep an eye out for a white liquid in a large tub in the market. Locals will be happy to point you in the right direction, if only to laugh and watch you squirm while you try to drink it! Some people swear by kymyz, we’ll leave that up to you to decide.
Bottoms up at At-Bashi market!
Getting around Kyrgyzstan is not always easy. While the main route from Bishkek to China is immaculate (thanks to investment from the Chinese), the roads in other parts of the country are terrible, particularly around Issyk Kul and Song Kul. Unlike in neighbouring Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, there is no real network of passenger trains in Kyrgyzstan. The best way to get around is via marshrutkas, which are essentially shared minibuses. You can easily identify these throughout Kyrgyzstan from the signs in their front window, showing the route number and their destination. In the cities such as Bishkek and Osh, Yandex Go is a lifesaver.
Kyrgyzstan is one of the more difficult countries in the world to be able to spell. The word ‘Kyrgyz’ is said to be a reference to the forty tribes that were said to form the basis of the Kyrgyz nation. After spending 3 weeks in the country I still can’t spell it.
The Cyrillic alphabet made catching a marshrutka a little challenging in Kyrgyzstan
Bishkek
The bustling streets of Bishkek
Situated in the far northern reaches of the country, hugging the Kazakh border, Bishkek is the capital city of Kyrgyzstan. The city lies at the edge of the Kazakh steppe on one site, with the Tian Shan mountain range (known locally as Ala-Too) in the distance on the other. In Kyrgyz, Ala Too actually translates as ‘high mountain’.
Bishkek is a thriving, modern city and by far the largest city in the country. Despite its geographical location, it is also the focal point of the country. Many young people from the traditional rural communities move to Bishkek to study and work in more modern industries such as technology and finance. Because of this, there is a vibrant feel to the city centre with plenty of young people around. All roads in Kyrgyzstan lead to Bishkek, and even in remote communities it is likely you can find a marshrutka or shared taxi running to Bishkek.
The Tien Shan mountain range looms large over the city
Formerly known as Frunze, Bishkek developed during the Russian period and there is plenty of city planning and Soviet architecture on show. The city is notable for its plethora of Soviet monuments, including a large statue of Lenin which is still standing behind the national museum. The main area of the city centre extending from Ala-Too Square is filled with ceremonial squares and parks, modern buildings and places to eat and drink. On the outskirts of the city, things are a little less polished. Bishkek is home to Kyrgyzstan’s largest Russian population, although we were told that this is much less prevalent than it used to be as many Russians have left since the country gained independence. Still, we were told that the Russian minority enjoys a favourable economic situation and controls a disproportionate amount of the city’s wealth.
Monuments, green parks and grand squares are everywhere in Bishkek
Despite the city’s organised appearance, the traffic in Bishkek is some of the worst we experienced in Central Asia. Not just the volume of traffic but also the standard of driving – many cars had dents, and it was easy to see why! You can get around the city easily enough using Yandex Go, or by local marshrutka if necessary.
Bishkek is home to Kyrgyzstan’s major airport. If you fly into Bishkek airport, there are marshrutkas from the airport to the city centre (marshrutka 380) – don’t listen to the taxi hustlers outside the airport as they’ll swear there isn’t one but if you head outside the airport, on the right hand side there is a marshrutka stop. You might have to wait a few minutes for the next one but rest assured it will come as long as you’re not arriving in the middle of the night. The marshrutka drops off here near the Financial and Economic College in the centre of Bishkek. This is easily the cheapest and most convenient way to get from the airport to the city or vice-versa.
Accommodation
Golden Hotel – A quaint, cozy first-floor hotel with welcoming reception. The breakfast room didn’t have enough tables for all the guests so occasionally we would have to wait for a table. The rooms were okay and the location was excellent.
SK Hotel – generous sized, very comfortable rooms with white linen bed sheets, slippers and air-con. We got the feeling this place was mostly frequented by Russian businessmen, but we didn’t feel too out of place. It’s very close to the centre of the city and all attractions are within walking distance. The entrance to the hotel is a little strange as it involves entering and walking through a fancy café called ‘La Baguette’, you actually need to go into La Baguette to get to the hotel. The café serves meals as well as coffee, very convenient if you’re feeling lazy.
Inside our room at SK Hotel in Bishkek
Activities
Ala-Too Square – this is the city’s central square, best known for its huge flagpole which is visible from far and wide. The State History museum dominates the north of the square, while the Kyrgyz parliament building is away to the west. Don’t miss the changing of the guard on the hour, every hour at the huge Kyrgyz flag in the square.
The showy high kicks of the soldiers during the changing of the guard in Ala Too Square was an unmissable sight
State History Museum – a great place to sharpen your Kyrgyz history knowledge or just to get out of the rain/sun for an afternoon. A very modern and well executed museum with information about all aspects of the history of Kyrgyz territory presented chronologically in English. The price was very fair as well, at around £2 for entry. We only managed to see two floors of the museum although there is a 3rd floor – this was because I broke my glasses!
The eternal flame to commemorate those lost during WW2 – located in Victory Square, this is a poignant reminder that it wasn’t just British or American soldiers that died during the conflict. When the Soviet Union entered the war, soldiers were drafted from all Soviet satellite states including Kyrgyzstan and other Central Asian territories. Interestingly, the Soviet Union named the conflict the Great Patriotic War and it’s still referred to by this name in all ex-Soviet states.
Victory Square is a popular meeting place in Bishkek
Lenin Statue behind the State History Museum – for any Lenin fans out there, the Lenin statue behind Ala Too Square is a must-visit site in the city. Even if you’re not a communist, it is still an interesting landmark. It’s one of the only remaining statues of Lenin still on display in Central Asia after the collapse of the Soviet Union. There are also statues of Lenin in Karakol and Osh.
Oak Park – a park area near Ala-Too Square containing statues of various local dignitaries, Soviet-era sculptures and children riding about recklessly on little go-karts.
Watch out for the mini electric cars and quadracycles shooting around Oak Park
Paniflov Park – if fairground rides in the park sounds like a great way to spend an afternoon or evening then Paniflov Park is the place to be. Paniflov was a Soviet hero of World War II, however this park has nothing to do with that. Instead it is a place mainly for children, with cheery funfair rides and stalls with games and prizes.
Burana Tower – this is an easy half-day trip from Bishkek.
Burana Tower is one of the only historical monuments in the country and is protected by UNESCO. The tower is located near the city of Tokmok and stands on site of the former settlement of Balasagun, which was established by the Karakhanids (Turkic Muslim tribe) in the 9th century CE. Burana Tower is the only remaining structure left at the archaeological site; it was once a minaret of the mosque during the Karakhanid dynasty.
Burana Tower in all its glory
There is a small admission fee to enter the archaeological site. As well as the tower, there are numerous intricate balbals (Turkic/Islamic gravemarkers) dotted across the site. These balbals feature cartoon-like engraved faces which depict the person whose grave they mark – it’s incredible to see the individual faces of people who lived 1000 years ago forever engraved in stone. There is also a very small museum featuring a handful of artefacts.
Some of the balbal faces are very distinctive
The rolling green pastures and white crystalline peaks of the Tian Shan Mountain range are best viewed from the top of the tower. It’s possible to ascend the winding stairs to the top – beware that these stairs are not suitable for travelers with walking issues as there are no banisters and the stairs are incredibly steep.
Impressive vistas from the top of the tower
As one of the few archaeological sites in the country, Burana Tower was overrun with tourists when we arrived, with at least 3 coach tours of Western tourists. Maybe we were unlucky as others told us they found the site to be quiet when they visited.
The stairs in the tower are just a little hair-raising
To get to Burana Tower we headed to the Bishkek East marshrutka station and took a marshrutka to Tokmok, around one hour away. At the marshrutka station in Tokmok we were immediately approached by a guy who offered to drive us to Burana tower (about 15 minutes drive), wait an hour and then take us back to the station for 1200 som. I suggested 1000 and he agreed. This guy turned out to be a very nice guy, things went exactly as planned and he even bought some fresh strawberries for us on the drive back. We were dropped off at the marshrutka station, caught the next marshrutka and were back in Bishkek in time for lunch.
Tokmok is a major producer of strawberries so if you happen to arrive during the harvest season, the strawberries are a sweet treat you have to try!
Ala-Archa National Park – half day trip with Kettik tour company. The Tian Shan mountains loom over Bishkek in the distance and Ala-Archa is one of the most popular places to visit from the city. It’s a little difficult to get to the park independently by public transport and we weren’t interested in any long hikes so we opted for a half-day tour with a local company. We were pleasantly surprised by how good the trip was. We picked the cheapest tour available and expected it to be solely in Russian but were happy to find the guide also spoke some English as well. The tour involved a short trek up to a viewpoint and then some free time in the national park, ideal for those short on time who want to get a taste of the park without embarking on an arduous trek. In hindsight we considered that for those wishing to spend more time, it would probably be possible to arrange with the tour company to be left at the park overnight and get a lift with the next group on the following day.
The views at Ala Archa National Park are absolutely stunning
In order to pay for the tour, Kettik required depositing money directly to their Kyrgyz bank account. This is possible by withdrawing cash and then paying in using one of the payment machines which can be found in most local supermarkets around Kyrgyzstan. We had a tough time figuring out how to use the machine at first due to the Cyrillic script, but we made it work eventually after a little trial and error. If completely stuck, I’m sure someone would help if you asked.
Ala-Archa is a beautiful alpine park featuring breathtaking views, even in the relatively small part of the park that we were able to explore. Some inquisitive birds ate out of the palm of my hand.
Foodie Places
Sierra Coffee Manas Ave – an upmarket, trendy café which is very centrally located. We particularly loved their seabuckthorn lemonade and homemade hash browns. They also serve a terrific breakfast here. In a state of delirium Dan accepted someone else’s breakfast and proceeded to eat it without complaining to the waiter. There was also Mexican food on the menu, which was a huge bonus for us.
The food was so tasty at Sierra we forgot to take a photo!
Navat Teahouse – an institution in Bishkek, Navat serves a combination of central Asian cuisine and is a great way to start your culinary journey through Central Asia. Here you can find manti, samsa, lagman, plov and many other typical central Asian as well as Chinese-inspired dishes. Navat is well-known as a place for locals and tourists alike and you’ll find local families celebrating alongside tourists chowing down. Navat has an extensive menu with photos of the food options (hallelujah) – this was a huge help for us as we didn’t have any data to translate the menu. We particularly enjoyed the fried peanut chicken, flaky spinach flatbread and beshbarmak (named five fingers as this is the amount of fingers you need to eat it) served with slices of horse-meat. There are a couple of branches of Navat in Bishkek, but all have the same menu with the same quality. Interestingly, Navat exists in other cities in Central Asia and we met locals from these places who claimed they didn’t like it – not our experience!
A veritable feast at Navat in Bishkek
Capito Coffee, Bakery & Pizza – we got a pizza delivered using Yandex, the quality was pretty good although be aware that the pepperoni is beef in Kyrgyzstan (a majority Muslim country so the people don’t eat pork), which is a bit unusual for those who aren’t familiar with beef sausage
SPAR next to Bishkek City Hall – we didn’t expect to be visiting a SPAR but this was our lifeline during our time in Bishkek. They have hot food, sandwiches and even ready to eat pizza on offer. It was a cheap place to grab a take-away lunch before heading out to explore the city, or heading outside of the city on a long trip.
Masa – an excellent choice for any sushi-lovers out there. With an extensive sushi menu and great quality sushi it’s a winning combination.
Delish sushi at Masa
Karakol
Near the bazaar, Karakol
Abutting the eastern tip of Issyk Kul, Karakol is the largest city to the east of the lake. It’s a launching point for travelers heading to Altyn Arashan National Park for multi-day hikes, as well as geological sites such as Fairy Tale Canyon Skazka and Jeti Oguz situated along the southern shores of Lake Issyk Kul, those searching for the last remaining eagles hunters in Bokonbayevo or those opting to stay in a yurt camp on the tranquil shores of the lake. We saw evidence that thrill seekers head to Karakol during the winter months to make the most of the fresh snow on the mountains, with some ski and snowboarding shops in Karakol.
Karakol is a Russian-era city which was only founded in the late 1800s, although it lacks the modernity of Bishkek and Osh. There is an eclectic mix of ethnicities within the city including Kyrgyz, Russians, Kazakhs, Tatars and Dungan and Uyghurs Muslims who fled persecution in China. The Dungan Mosque and Russian Orthodox Church are fantastic examples of this cultural mixing pot.
Karakol is a multi-ethnic melting pot
Altyn Arashan – although we personally didn’t visit the national park and complete this popular 3-day hike, we learned from other travelers that the weather conditions in Altyn Arashan can be very changeable with excellent hiking conditions one week followed by heavy snow preventing any passage the next week. By late September we were led to believe it was on the cusp of closing down for the winter. We were also informed that it was possible to rent horses to complete the trek, sadly we didn’t do this ourselves so don’t have any more information about this.
It’s possible to get directly from Bishkek to Karakol via marshrutka from Bishkek Western Bus Station, however the road conditions are awful along the northern shore of Issyk Kul so expect a very bumpy and dusty ride. Our marshrutka was hot, cramped and broke down along the way meaning the journey took most of the day.
Breaking down on the way to Karakol
Accommodation
Duet Hostel – if you’re planning to stay in Karakol, I cannot recommend Duet Hostel enough. As well as being a very comfortable hostel with private rooms and dorms, it also has a fantastic restaurant attached that serves up amazing Western and Central Asian cuisine, open from breakfast to dinner. They also have a whiteboard where travelers can write messages if they’re looking for extra travel buddies or someone to share a trip to Altyn Arashan, the Pamir Highway or anywhere else. It looked like a great way for travelers to link up and find other like-minded souls to share an adventure with. As if this wasn’t enough they also host a Kyrgyz music and dance show on Sunday night, which was a highlight of our time in Karakol. With twirling costumed female dancers, traditional Kyrgyz songs performed on an accordion and a super intense recitation of Manas – it’s the place to be on a Sunday night in Karakol.
Activities
GPSMyCity self-guided walking tour including stops at:
Dungan Mosque – created for the communities that fled China in the early 20th century, the mosque is heavily inspired by traditional Chinese architecture and is said to have been built without using a single nail. A small donation is required to go inside the mosque – we didn’t have any cash and couldn’t find an ATM anywhere nearby so make sure you bring some small change with you!
Holy Trinity Cathedral – a shining example of a wooden Russian Orthodox church from the late 19th century, we overheard a tour guide mention that it used to be used as a community centre and ballroom during the Soviet times when religion was prohibited.
Entry is free to the Russian Orthodox Church
Big Bazaar – no city walking tour is complete without a visit to the local market – interestingly this one is constructed from old shipping containers
Bugu Bazaar – a smaller and less chaotic bazaar with food options.
Bugu Bazaar is much calmer than the main Bazaar
Karakol Historical Museum – with local history displays and a bizarre collection of taxidermied wildlife, this small museum is a good place to spend the afternoon. There is a small entry fee and displays in English are limited, but to our surprise the museum has wifi and an online guide is available in English for free. It also has a fantastic collection of photographs by Swiss explorer, Ella Maillart, documenting her solo journey through Central Asia – there are some particularly poignant images featuring daily life in the Karakol region in the 1930’s. Definitely worth a visit just for the photo gallery.
Step back in time with Ella Maillart’s photos of the Karakol region
Sunday Morning Cattle Market – located here on Google Maps
Picture this, it’s 8am on a Sunday morning and you’re in a muddy car park which is slathered in animal faeces, battered cars and trucks are continuously arriving and mainly Kyrgyz men gather to inspect this week’s haul. The place is crammed with kicking horses impatiently waiting around to be sold, sashaying sheep with huge fatty buttocks block your path and goats seem to be bleating all over the place. This is the animal market just outside of Karakol city centre. This may seem chaotic and very far away from the farmers markets of Europe but there is order in amongst the craziness. For example there is a dedicated section for each type of animal and even an area for the sale of straw. The best thing to do is keep out of the way and just watch from the sidelines. An early start is required, but it’s a must-see if you’re in the area on a Sunday. My best advice is to wear shoes you don’t mind getting dirty, avoid walking around the back of horses as they might kick and arrive early to see the full extent of the market before it winds down for the day (8am or earlier is the best time).
Expect wild scenes at the Sunday morning cattle market
We tried to get a Yandex to the animal market but none were available that early on a Sunday morning. In the end we just walked all the way there from our hostel. The market is located here, quite a way out of town near the village of Jan-Aryk, and took about an hour and a half to walk from the centre of Karakol. There was some confusion over the location as a couple of sources provided outdated information, but I can confirm it’s definitely there near Jan-Aryk. We’ve been told it’s possible to get a marshrutka but we couldn’t deal with the hassle of hailing one off the street. We did however get a marshrutka ride back to the city centre as it’s one straight road back to the city.
Sunday Night Music and Dance Show at Duet Hostel
Settle down with a cocktail on the comfy sofas and watch the brilliant show at Duet Hostel. It’s free so you don’t need to bring any money with you. The highlights include an enthralling recitation of Manas, traditional love songs accompanied with an accordian and twirling ladies in Kyrgyz national dress. There is nowhere better to be on a Sunday night in Karakol, I guarantee!
A dance troupe performing in the music and dance show at Duet Hostel
Foodie Places
Duet Hostel – we couldn’t get enough of the food at Duet Hostel, so much so that we didn’t eat anywhere else in Karakol!
Issyk Kul (Tosor)
On the tranquil shores of Issyk Kul
Issyk Kul lake is the second largest alpine lake in the world after Lake Titicaca in Bolivia. Stare into the watery depths of Issyk Kul and watch the waves gently lap the shoreline.
Issyk Kul offers an opportunity to spend the night in a traditional yurt, but at much more moderate temperatures than the high-altitude and isolated Song Kul lake. There are good transport links around the lake, with marshrutkas regularly traversing the northern and southern shores of Issyk Kul. Oddly there are some Russian holiday resorts on the northern shores of Issyk Kul around Cholpon Ata, but we stayed far away from these.
The southern shore of Issyk Kul is less developed, quieter and more traditional than the northern shore. This region is home to some of the last remaining eagle hunters in Kyrgyzstan. We opted to stay in the small village of Tosor due to its close proximity to Fairy Tale Canyon. Tosor is a quiet hamlet with a smattering of houses – it’s very much a settlement rather than a nomadic camp like those on the shores of Song Kul. There is a small shop along the main road where you can buy snacks and water, it’s not as isolated as you would expect and the town has a sandy beach along the shore of Issyk Kul. In all honesty we hadn’t expected Tosor to be as built-up as it was, although it’s still nothing more than a very small village.
The gap in the roof of the yurt is covered at night and during bouts of rain
It’s possible to get from Karakol to Tosor in a marshrutka, just take any marshrutka heading to Bokonbayevo or Balykchy along the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul and tell the driver you want to get off at Tosor. The village bus stop is right along the highway and passing marshrutkas should stop here if you flag them down. The marshrutkas will pass the entrance to Fairy Tale Canyon shortly after Tosor if you are looking to make your own way there.
Waiting for a marshrukta along the main road AKA dirt track near Tosor
Accommodation
Yurt Camp Torsor (Booking.com) or Tonja Yurt Camp (Google Maps)
After dragging our suitcases over the sand, we were pleasantly surprised by the level of comfort and solitude offered at Yurt Camp Tosor. After traipsing through the village, we didn’t expect the yurt camp to be as secluded as it was. Yurt Camp Tosor is situated right on the shores of Issyk Kul – the lake is no more than 50 meters away. I wouldn’t recommend spending more than 1 night here as apart from Fairy Tale Canyon there isn’t a whole lot to do except walking along the shoreline of Issyk Kul.
How cute is this yurt at Yurt Camp Tosor!
Yurt Camp Tosor was the most modern yurt camp we had the pleasure of staying at with western-style toilets, warm showers, WIFI (yes, you read that correctly!) and plug sockets in the yurt. As it was our first yurt stay, it gently eased us into yurt-life before heading to Song Kul for the full yurt experience (spoiler: there wasn’t any wifi, showers or electricity). The family who owned the yurt camp were friendly, even offering us some home-grown fruit when we arrived.
Activities
Fairy Tale Canyon (Skazka)
Fairy Tale Canyon makes you feel like you’re walking on Mars
There are two ways to reach Fairy Tale Canyon from Tosor. You can either catch any marshrutka heading west and let the driver know you want to be dropped off at Fairy Tale Canyon (Skazka), however between the main road and the canyon it is a considerable walk (around an hour or so) so make sure you factor this walk into your timings. Make sure you hail a marshrutka from the bus stop located here to avoid any issues.
Alternatively, you can arrange a private taxi. We arranged on the spot to share a lift with another couple staying at Yurt Camp Tosor which meant we split the cost of a private transfer – our host at the yurt camp ended up driving us to the canyon, waited around while we explored and took us back to the camp which saved us the long and arduous hike from the main road to the canyon.
Make sure you wear good quality hiking boots as the trails are steep and rocky at points
There are a few trails to choose from that loop through the canyon – these allow you to spot specific rock formations with descriptive names like the Great Wall of China and the Castle. Walking through the canyon feels like being on Mars with the jagged, reddish rocks looking so alien. The more you focus on the rocks, the more you seem to be able to make out familiar shapes – almost similar to staring at clouds! This is a great place to take copious amounts of photos with the interesting geological landscape and glistening shores of Lake Issyk Kul in the distance.
Lord of the Rings vibes anyone?
Foodie Places
All meals we had were provided by Yurt Camp Tosor – typical Central Asian cuisine i.e. plov, soup and bread. You can’t go wrong with this hearty and filling food.
All meals are served in the traditional way at Yurt Camp Tosor
As with other yurt camps, if you request lunch and dinner, you don’t get to choose from a menu. Your host will just serve what they have – usually a soup and a combination of two options such as lagman (noodle soup), plov, manti or salad with bread and tea. Yurt camps aren’t places for fussy eaters and I imagine vegans may find it difficult as the diet is so meat-centric. Even plov is cooked in animal fat! If you know that you have additional dietary requirements make sure you make prior arrangements or bring snacks with you as you may go hungry in some of the more remote yurt camps.
Kochkor
When it rains in Kochkor these roads become flooded
With a population of just over 11,000 residents, this small town is a popular stopover for travelers heading onto Song Kul or beginning the trek to Song Kul on horse-back. As the provincial capital, it is somewhat more developed and urbanised than the low population suggests. Within Kochkor you can find tour companies offering yurt stays, horse-trekking and other activities at Song Kul, the local CBT office, grocery shops and supermarkets (Globus), ATMs, restaurants such as Pizzeria Syrduu and guesthouses galore. It’s a restful place to begin or end any forays to Song Kul. The town of Kochkor itself does not have much in the way of attractions, but it is a good place to witness life in a small regional Kyrgyz town. We found that the people were curious and friendly here, particularly the children on the streets near our guesthouse.
It’s possible to get to Kochkor via a direct marshrutka from Bishkek. Alternatively, from Issyk Kul you can catch a marshrutka west to Balykchy and change to either a shared taxi or another marshrutka to Kochkor from the main bus station located here. When departing Kochkor, shared taxis and marshrutkas can be found along the main street in the area surrounding the Globus supermarket
Accommodation
Guesthouse Mira – A comfortable guesthouse in a quiet residential area of Kochkor, it’s a short 10-15 minute walk to reach the town centre and amenities like restaurants and grocery shops. The marshrutka station is around a 20-minute walk from the guesthouse. We happened to visit during a bout of heavy rain which caused power cuts in the guesthouse and throughout the town, however we were told that this wasn’t a regular occurrence.
We organized transport to Song Kul through this guesthouse and it worked out well for us. Our driver to Song Kul was an English-speaking tour guide who provided a lot of insight and additional information about the area, which made the long journey fly by. It was also much cheaper than the price quoted by CBT Kochkor. You can also book horse-trekking via Guesthouse Mira as well if this is something you’re interested in.
Activities
Our stay in Kochkor was just a short stop to recharge before heading to Song Kul, so we didn’t really do anything except arrange our onward transport and have a look around the small city park, which is marked on Google Maps as ‘Park’. There is a very small regional history museum next to the park, but we didn’t visit.
Foodie Places
Pizzeria Syrduu – this place is like catnip for backpackers. We saw what we imagined to be every single Western traveler in the whole of Kochkor inside this restaurant when we were there. This place is definitely a favourite with travellers, I mean pizza and beer – how can you go wrong with that combination? The chicken burger, which costs around £2, was also a hit with us and reminded us of KFC – not what you expect to find in a small regional town in Kyrgyzstan. There’s also horse-meat pizza on the menu for the more adventurous foodies to try.
Anticipating the arrival of our pizza at Pizzeria Syrduu
Song Kul Lake
Song Kul Lake is a place for quiet reflection
Remote and sparsely populated, Song Kul is an alpine lake located high in the mountains in central Kyrgyzstan. Unlike the much larger Issyk Kul, Song Kul does not have permanent settlements, public transport links or even roads. Nomadic families live in yurts around the lake during the warmer summer months before migrating back to the comfort of their lower-altitude homes in the nearby villages such as Kyzart and Keng-Suu to pass the colder, unforgiving winters. The yurt camps extend across the full circumference of Song Kul, scattered along the plains surrounding the lake, remaining in place from spring until late September.
It’s difficult to put the experience at Song Kul into words, other than to say it is like something from a different reality or a dream. The lake is beautiful, pristine and peaceful, surrounded by nothing but mountains and plains with groups of semi-wild horses and cows roaming freely across the vast landscape. There are few if any vehicles or few other people. It is truly a sight to behold and totally different to Issyk Kul, or anywhere else that we have experienced.
The vastness of the plains is striking
For the full experience of nomadic life, you need to be at Song Kul between May – mid September. The nomads leave Song Kul anytime between mid to late September so to avoid disappointment don’t leave your trip too late. We were lucky enough to stay at Song Kul right at the end of the season for the nomads, and during our two days there we witnessed many of the surrounding yurt camps starting to disappear. We also witnessed the nomads herding their horses and cattle back to the village, sometimes blocking the roads. When we arrived at Song Kul, the plains were full of half-wild horses meandering about but as our short time at the lake progressed more and more yurt camps disappeared and, by the time we left, all the neighboring yurt camps had departed for the village. There is no exact date that this migration happens, it’s a decision based on experience, grass condition and temperature.
Rogue cattle are often on the dirt tracks along the way to Song Kul
Song Kul is deserted and largely inaccessible during the winter, although we were told by our driver that during the winter some crazy tourists do arrange to go ice fishing (totally illegal by the way) in Song Kul. We were also informed that wolves descend from the mountains around this area during the colder winter months and that sometimes they attack villagers, especially lone women and children.
Getting to Song Kul is no easy feat. We were shocked by the high prices being quoted for transfers and taxis from Kochkor, however upon making the trip we understood why the costs were so high. Although it doesn’t seem too far distance-wise, don’t be deceived by online maps as the lake is extremely remote, accessed via treacherous mountain passes and the final part of the journey has no roads at all.
Bumpy ride to Song Kul lake
To get to Song Kul you can either arrange transport from Kochkor or Naryn, or try to get a shared taxi to the nearest village of Kyzart from where you may be able to either hitch a ride or make the arduous 10k+ hike into the mountains if you’re feeling very brave and are an experienced hiker. I probably wouldn’t recommend this for most people, although we met some French guys (experienced walkers from the Alps) who managed to complete this trek over the high altitude pass in a day. We arranged for a private transfer through our guesthouse in Kochkor for 12000 som or $140. This included a private transfer to our yurt camp at Song Kol and then shared transport back from Song Kul to Kochkor. We found that the price quoted by CBT Kochkor was excessive.
After turning off the main highway, you are treated to stunning valley views reminiscent of Switzerland with livestock roaming the patchwork of green farmland. The roads are dirt tracks, rocky and gravelly and best traversed in a 4×4. The ascent up to the top of the pass can be fraught with issues during snowy or wet weather as the roads become impassable. The day before we arrived at Song Kul we were told that some travellers had to spend an extra day at the lake due to rainy weather conditions the previous day.
The varied landscapes on the journey to Song Kul
We bumped into a couple hiking the full perimeter of the lake – this looked like a great idea as there are so many yurt camps dotted along the shores which would make ideal rest stops along the way.
Horse-trekking to Song Kul is actually a budget-friendly option when compared with the cost of the private transfer. You can arrange this quite easily in Kochkor and save money by booking directly with local tour companies rather than 3rd parties. We heard that with some negotiation and the right tour company you can get a 3-day horse-trek to Song Kul for around $200 including food and accommodation along the way. This is a great deal as we paid around $54 for two people per night at Azamat Yurt Camp which only included breakfast and not lunch or dinner. Plus we then had to fork out extra for horse-riding around the lake. Be warned, we were told by two Dutch tourists that the multi-day horse trek can be quite uncomfortable if you’re not experienced with spending a long time in the saddle. They opted to get a transfer back to Kochkor rather than ride back, so that definitely speaks volumes!
Taking a rest from our mini horse-trek to Kyzart Pass
Accommodation
Accommodation is available in the yurt camps surrounding Song Kul. All of the camps are owned and operated by genuine nomadic families, although some of the camps are much more touristic than others with facilities such as running water and fixed toilet blocks. In high season there are dozens and dozens of yurt camps around the lake, so the possibility of finding somewhere to stay would likely be high just by turning up. However we like to be prepared and so booked ahead with a camp that had an online presence.
Yurt Camp Azamat – our experience at Azamat had lots of highs and lows. We decided to try Azamat as it had lots of positive reviews on Booking.com whereas other cheaper yurt camps on Airbnb had no reviews at all and we didn’t want to take the chance.
Horses wander all over the yurt camp so bear this in mind if you need the toilet in the night
It’s very important to point out that Azamat is a more expensive option compared with other nearby yurt camps. We both agreed that it was a clean and tidy yurt camp with an instagrammable swing and wonderful sweeping views of the lake. One perk of this yurt camp is that it has a western toilet, whereas many of the other yurt camps only have an outhouse squat-style toilet. You are paying for nicer toilet facilities and proper wooden-frame beds with mattresses.
Usually the more touristic yurt camps have a fixer in a nearby town that deals with the bookings and lets the hosts of the yurt camp know when there is a new booking and what arrivals to expect. However, after initially making contact we struggled to get in touch with Azamat prior to our arrival. This was a little annoying as we had hoped to arrange transport to the yurt camp directly through them at a cheaper price – this never materialized so we had to look elsewhere in Kochkor.
You can’t say you’ve stayed in a yurt unless you’ve taken a photo with it!
Azamat isn’t alone in the valley and doesn’t sit directly on the shores of the lake; it has a couple of neighboring yurt camps which the promotional photos on Booking.com don’t show. However this isn’t too much of a problem and the lake shore is only a short walk away.
Azamat is a 5 minute walk from the shores of Song Kul
We found the yurts very warm (sometimes too warm!) at night as the family made sure to always put fuel on the stove – this was very much appreciated as the temperature drops drastically outside overnight given the high altitude.
Fresh supplies reach Song Kul intermittently by trucks traveling along the terrible roads, so food is more expensive as expected. Most yurt camps offer meals at an additional cost and the same was true for Azamat. We found the portion sizes and variety to be better than expected and we never went away hungry.
We found that the horse-riding offered by Azamat was overpriced when compared with other yurt camps in the area – although as it was the end of the season we didn’t have any other choice but to go with Azamat.
Sadly one downside of picking a popular yurt camp with an online presence and good facilities is the prevalence of other tourists! Our tranquillity was shattered on the first night by the arrival of a Singaporean tour group of around 12 people who were constantly chatting until late in the night, playing loud music and generally being a nuisance. They even woke us up at 5am in the morning! As you can imagine we were royally peeved by this occurrence as we’d specifically come to this very remote and peaceful place to get away from loud tour groups like this. It was just our luck! However after one night of being loud enough to wake the dead, they moved on and we managed to enjoy our last night in peace. It’s important to be aware that tour groups do visit Song Kul and my best advice is to pick a yurt camp far away from them. There are more authentic yurt camps run by nomadic families with only a couple of spare yurts that are less touristic – these would be best if you seek solitude like us.
Overall, if we were to do the whole experience again we would organize a yurt camp stay in Kochkor rather than using Booking.com as we definitely could’ve gotten a better deal than we did or even better opt for the 3-day horse-trek instead.
Activities
You may wonder, what is there even to do at Song Kul lake?
It’s not about packing as many activities into one or two days as possible. It’s about taking the time to disconnect from technology and social media (no phone signal remember), evenings are spent chatting with other travelers over dinner whilst days are spent meandering along the shores of the lake to watch the half-wild packs of horses munching away on grass; if you’re feeling brave taking a dip in the lake (not recommended as the lake is cold year-round!), stargazing at night and watching the sun slowly set over the mountains. Song Kul is about slowing down and reflecting. It’s about taking time to appreciate your stunning natural surroundings, huddling up under the blankets in the yurt and not counting the minutes until your next appointment.
The sunsets at Song Kul Lake are magnificent
The flat terrain around the lake is perfect for gentle hikes and evening strolls. If you’re itching to get out and about, on the north side of the lake you can walk to the mausoleum of Olzhobolot uulu Andash, a hero of a little-known war in the mid-1800s. This is one of the only structures or buildings around the lake. Be aware that without any identifiable landmarks, the distances around the lake can be deceiving – we spent what felt like an eternity walking towards the mausoleum without it ever seeming to get any closer.
The Mausoleum of Olzhobolot uulu Andash is a pictureque marker along the shores of the lake
The top activity at Song Kul is horse-riding around the lake, or up to Kyzart Pass for panoramic views over the Kyzart valley and surrounding mountains in one direction and stunning views over Song Kul lake in the opposite direction. My best advice to get the best price for a horse-trek is to ask around at various yurt camps, as you may find that different camps offer the same activity for half the price. Our camp, Azamat, was particularly expensive when it came to horse-treks.
Stunning views at the top of Kyzart Pass
The lake front also makes for a relaxed horse-trek
Foodie Places
There are no restaurants, cafes (or even buildings) around Song Kul. All meals are provided by the yurt camps, in our case by Azamat Yurt Camp and cooked by the family grandmother.
Naryn
The main square in Naryn
This long and narrow city is located in a valley surrounding the Naryn river, giving it a peculiar layout. A regional capital and one of the largest settlements in this part of the country, most visitors choose to stop here before heading to Tash Rabat. The city itself is quite picturesque in its own right, surrounded by large hills and greenery among an otherwise desert-like landscape.
With a couple of university buildings and higher education colleges, we found that Naryn had a relatively young population and it felt a little more cosmopolitan than some of the other small towns we visited in Kyrgyzstan.
It’s possible to get a marshrutka from Bishkek directly to and from Naryn. There is also supposedly a direct marshrutka from Kochkor, however we missed the last marshrutka and ended up getting a shared taxi, which was still pretty cheap.
Accommodation
Naryn Guesthouse – this place seems to be highly rated amongst backpackers however we can honestly say we weren’t very fond of this place. After booking a deluxe room we were led to a separate building behind the main guesthouse – the room was acceptable but had dog faeces outside which wasn’t a great look at all. We also felt very separated from the other guests and had communication issues regarding breakfast. Even though breakfast was included, we were told it wasn’t on Booking.com messenger and then told it was but wasn’t available before 8am? It was difficult to find anyone from the guesthouse to sort this out. Overall a bit of a mess. We actually cancelled our later stay and decided to try another guesthouse – we almost never do this.
Sunset over the main square
Guesthouse Sanat – we had a much better experience here than at Naryn Gueshouse. After being allowed to check-in early, we found that the room was very clean and comfortable. We particularly liked that guests were invited to the kitchen table in the main house for breakfast – it really felt like you were part of the family rather than a tourist in a hotel.
Activities
After a brief walk around the city centre, you can head to a viewpoint here (named Panorama on Google Maps), it’s a short scramble up but well-worth it to admire the elongated city from above.
Go to higher ground to see the elongated shape of Naryn for yourself
If you’re into the macabre, then this cemetery located on a hill close to this petrol station is definitely worth a visit. The spooky cemetery looks almost like a city of the dead with dilapidated yet still ostentatious gravemarkers that almost look like they’re about to take a dive off the cliff. It sits at odds with the busy tarmac road that swerves through the valley beside it.
I definitely wouldn’t want to walk around this graveyard after dark!
Foodie Places
Nomad Coffee – don’t be put off by some of the negative reviews of this place. We read some reviews claiming that the servers are rude, but we experienced the exact opposite of this and if anything they seemed eager to please. Nomad Coffee is a bit of a misnomer as it is definitely more of a restaurant than a coffee house. This place always seemed to be busy with locals, some of whom seemed to be dressed up for a fancy meal, and we saw the occasional foreign tourist in here too. Overall, we found that the portion sizes were generous and the food was tasty. Another draw was the very economical prices. Dan particularly enjoyed the stroganoff and lagman.
Stroganoff at its finest at Nomad Coffee
Globus – this large chain supermarket was our go-to for sandwiches and snacks.
Tash Rabat
Spot the caravanserai!
Nestled in the mountains near the border with China, the remote Tash Rabat is known for containing one of the few ancient structures in Kyrgyzstan, a centuries-old large stone building with disputed origins. For over 600 years, the building was used as a ‘caravanserai’ or inn for weary travelers to rest before recommencing their journey along the Silk Road. Tash means stone and Rabat means fortified place – this rabat refers to a ‘hostel’ or ‘base’ rather than a military fortress.
The caravanserai at Tash Rabat was used from the 15th century onwards to accommodate travelers on the Silk Road – as the trade routes covered vast distances, these outposts were very important as they provided shelter, food and bathing facilities for merchants and travellers. The caravanserai at Tash Rabat contains 31 dome-shaped rooms. It is possible to go inside for a small fee paid to an old man at the entrance, there isn’t that much to see inside but if you’ve made the effort to get this far then you might as well go in and have a look. During our visit there was nobody else around, and when we had finished exploring the building the old man at the entrance closed the gate and disappeared, presumably to get lunch – we later saw some bemused tourists waiting around outside for him to return.
Not many tourists make the pilgrimage to the caravanserai at Tash Rabat so you might end up having it all to yourself!
It’s not just the caravanserai at Tash Rabat that is worth seeing, the surrounding lush valleys and imposing mountains are stunning. While many tourists are shuttled to the caravanserai at Tash Rabat on coach tours before abruptly departing, in my opinion it’s worth spending the night at Tash Rabat just to experience the tranquility and stillness of the area. This also allows you to explore the caravanserai before the large tourist groups arrive. There are plenty of yurt camps nearby to choose from.
Pastoral scenes from Tash Rabat
Accommodation
Tash Rabat is similar to Song Kul in that there is no public transport – we traveled via shared taxi from Naryn to the nearby town of At-Bashi and then arranged for our yurt camp host to pick us up from the bus station there. It may seem like a lot of effort to reach but Tash Rabat was a highlight of our trip.
Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp – located just a 15-minute walk from Tash Rabat. I can’t recommend this place enough, the location is picturesque, sitting in the valley with the caravanserai visible in the distance. The family were extremely friendly and welcoming and the food was great. You can’t book Sabyrbek’s using any regular booking platforms like Booking.com or Airbnb – to reserve a room/yurt you need to make contact via their website by submitting a web inquiry form. We found out that Sabyrbek’s daughter in Bishkek manages all the bookings and admin, she is very efficient and can be relied upon for a swift reply in perfect English. We were very impressed by their website as it has a complete price-list for all accommodation, activities and transfer options.
The well-worn trail from Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp to the caravanserai
After much research and consideration as to what would be the more cost effective way to get to Tash Rabat, we opted to be picked up from At-Bashy marshrutka station via Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp instead of getting a transfer all the way from Naryn. This was much cheaper than trying to get a transfer all the way from Naryn. We were quite apprehensive about pulling this off as we didn’t have any data or any way to contact the driver, who turned out to be Toko, Sabyrbek’s son. We only had email confirmation that the transfer would even happen. In the end we had nothing to worry about as Toko was on time and at the pick-up point ready to collect us without issue. Sabyrbek was there at the yurt camp to welcome us when we arrived. He spoke basic English and told us he’d started learning English at age 50!
The camp contains a number of yurts and also a small guesthouse. We were the only guests and even though we originally booked a yurt, we were offered a room inside the guesthouse at the same price. As this seemed like the more comfortable option we had no problem with the switch. The rooms in the guesthouse are decked out with wooden frame beds and proper mattresses – there was even a radiator in the room! We were also impressed by the fact you can pay extra for wifi access and there was the option to indulge in a Russian-style sauna (I think this included hot water for a wash too). There is cold running water with washbasins outside, and a western-style toilet which is located in an outbuilding quite a distance from the guesthouse and yurts (but this is to be expected in yurt camps).
Peace at last in Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp
Sabyrbek was a really nice guy, he took us horse-riding and on the day we left he drove us with his family to the Sunday market at At-Bashi and gave us a quick tour before helping to find a shared taxi for us back to Naryn. We also spent some of the afternoon playing with Sabyrbek’s grandson in the garden, who seemed more than happy to have friends to play with. Overall we had a great time at this camp.
Sabyrbek giving us a guided tour around At-Bashi cattle market
Activities
Caravanserai at Tash Rabat
For most tourists, Tash Rabat is synonymous with the caravanserai located there but locals still call the stone building ‘caravanserai’ instead of the generic name of the area, which is Tash Rabat.
There is a small entrance fee so make sure you bring some cash with you. Once you arrive you will spot an older gentleman who sits at the entrance and collects the entrance fee. Sometimes the caravanserai closes for lunch, we saw a coach arrive just as the solitary gatekeeper locked the building up and I can only imagine those tourists had to wait for him to return. As a forewarning, the small amount of information inside the building isn’t in English so make sure you already have information to hand in the form of a guidebook or preloaded website. Once you’ve explored the stone rooms in the interior of the building, you can climb onto the roof via the back and admire the pastoral vistas from a different vantage point. We witnessed countless visitors making the ascent up the hill behind the caravanserai to get a better view of the valley, however we didn’t do this. There seems to be a well-worn trail to the top and this seemed an especially popular thing to do around sunset.
It doesn’t take long to explore the caravanserai as the stone rooms are empty
View from the roof of the caravanserai
Horse-riding through the valley with Sabyrbek
A pleasant way to spend the afternoon after exploring the caravanserai – we particularly enjoyed riding through a field of yak (similar to cows but slightly shorter with much more fur and a long furry tail), apparently yaks can be aggressive especially if they feel threatened with their young so it was very special to get so close to them without bothering them or causing them distress. Sabyrbek was our guide and was very nimble for his age (I would guess he is in his 60’s) – carefully leading the way across the streams and pastures. We found that the price for this activity was much lower than we were charged for horse riding at Song Kul! You have the option to pick either a 1 hour, 2 hour (we did this) or longer horse-trek – it’s totally up to you. Sabyrbek was more than happy to accommodate and we didn’t need to pre-book this – it can all be arranged on the day.
A guided horse-trek with Sabyrbek through a field of yaks
Foodie Places
There are no cafes, restaurants or shops around Tash Rabat. Food is provided at the yurt camps.
Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp – the best food of all the yurt camps we stayed in. There was plentiful food and so many snacks on the table!
A full table at Sabyrbek’s Yurt Camp
After visiting the eastern part of Kyrgyzstan we returned to Bishkek and took a bus to Almaty in Kazakhstan. We later returned to Kyrgyzstan at the end of our Pamir Highway trip after visiting Tajikistan!
Sary Mogul & Sary Tash
The snowy peaks of the Pamir Mountain range
Sary Mogul and Sary Tash are caught in the crossfire in a standoff between the two mountain ranges of Alay and Pamir. The latter snow-capped mountain range resembles a spine extending along the horizon as far as the eye can see. Immediately you are struck by the flatness of the plain and fierce contrast of the two opposing mountain ranges looming large on opposite sides. Both villages are situated in the Alay Valley – a fertile, flat plain between the two mountain ranges. During the summer months you can find yurt camps dotted about the plains between the Tajik border and Sary Tash. Most of the villagers are nomadic shepherds that spend the summer months tending to their flock in the jailoo (summer pasture away from villages) before heading back to Sary Tash or Mogul for the winter months.
The sparsely populated plains of Alay Valley
These two villages are popular with mountaineers as they are closest settlements to Lenin Peak, the 2nd highest mountain in both Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Lenin Peak is on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border, it’s considered one of the easier 7000m+ climbs and is so named after the communist revolutionary leader, Vladimir Lenin. There are base camps on the slopes of the mountain. It also has an interesting ridge-like appearance which apparently makes summiting it a little easier.
Sary Tash and Sary Mogul are also either the first or final stops for any intrepid travelers undertaking a Pamir Highway road trip like us. These villages have a small population of hardy (much needed with the extreme temperatures and snowfall) but warm and inquisitive locals. Once off the main road, you hit rocky, unpaved roads.
Walking the unpaved streets in Sary Mogul
Sary Tash is located directly along the main road from the Tajik border. It is the last outpost before Tajikistan and also the first port of welcome for travelers from the Pamir Highway to Kyrgyzstan.
In Sary Mogul, there seem to be more cows in the village than people. It’s a strange sight to behold the cows wandering aimlessly around the town. It’s almost comical to watch them meander up the road or cross the road – it reminded us of Animal Farm. They don’t talk or wear clothes though!
Cows on the loose in Sary Mogul
Accommodation
Eshinbay Gesthoust (this is not a spelling mistake – this is how it’s spelt on Google Maps) – run by a charming local family, this guesthouse looks unassuming from the outside but is a clean and modern family home. The father of the family is an English teacher at the local school and the mum is also a teacher as well. The house is shared between the family and any guests. They also have a donkey in the yard that tolerates being petted by guests. There are Western-style toilets, free wifi and hot showers – this is paradise for anyone who has come from Tajikistan on the Pamir Highway and had to experience the ‘toilets’ – I will say no more about this.
Terrific views of the Pamir Mountains from Eshinbay Guesthouse
To read about our experience on the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan click this link.
The hosts also accept Tajik somoni, which is a huge plus if you have extra somoni lying around after the Pamir Highway.
Activities
Traveller’s Pass/Best View Point – a much more manageable hike than summiting Lenin Peak, plus you don’t need a permit. This hike offers stunning unimpeded views of Lenin Peak. We ended up drifting off course so didn’t make it the whole way to Traveller’s Pass – even a 2-hour hike along the trails in this area was fantastic. We ended our Pamir Highway road trip with a short hike in the area and found it was a brilliant way to end the trip. Keep an eye out for yaks as we managed to spot some on the surrounding mountain sides. During the summer months you can stay at the foot of Lenin Peak – there are a smattering of yurt camps – however these had all disappeared when we were there in late October. Our tour operator for the Pamir Highway, Visit Alay, boldly claimed these yurt camps are the prettiest in all of Kyrgyzstan however I can’t say whether this is true or not. As the area is dotted with lakes, it must be very cool to spend the night there.
Traveller’s Pass can be snowy in October so bring warm clothing with you
We were taken to the trailhead by our driver from the Pamir Highway, but if traveling independently it would probably be easy enough to arrange a transfer via one of the guesthouses in Sary Mogul.
Foodie Places
Cafe in Sary Tash situated along the main road – we couldn’t find this cafe on Google Maps or 2gis so you’ll just have to look out for the sign on the main road when entering Sary Tash. I believe it’s also a guesthouse too. It’s one of the only places in town that caters to travelers – there is no printed menu so it’s a choice between whatever they have available on the day, for example fried chicken or dumpling soup. The walls and doors are covered in stickers from travelers passing through which are a quirky touch. From the amount of stickers it’s obvious this café is a favourite with the backpacker and overlanding communities. It’s also important to note that they accept both Kyrgyz som and Tajik somoni, the exchange rate isn’t fantastic but you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere that exchanges somoni for anything near the official rate in Kyrgyzstan.
Eshinbay Guesthouse – we enjoyed dinner at our guesthouse in Sary Mogul, the food was exceptionally tasty and filling here with a huge array of snacks and treats arranged artfully on platters on the table.
Osh
View of the city from Sulaiman-Too hill
Osh is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan after Bishkek. We spent most of our time here recuperating after our Pamir Highway tour. Osh is a large, built-up urban city and contains a large Uzbek community, which has at times seen some tension with the local Kyrgyz population. In the centre of the city is the Sulaiman-Too hill, which has long been considered a sacred place and is protected by UNESCO.
Transport between Osh and Bishkek isn’t great – the best way to get from one to the other is by air travel as the road route is slow and arduous, the road conditions are notoriously terrible and the prevalence of marshrutkas and even shared taxis is limited. However, on occasion flights are also grounded between Osh and Bishkek and the airline running this service is reportedly unreliable. Situated in the Fergana Valley, Osh is very close to the border with Uzbekistan and is also another starting and ending point for Pamir Highway road trips into Tajikistan, with companies such as Visit Alay offering trips. The road from Sary Tash to Osh is very snaky but super picturesque.
Buckle up for a swervey ride from Sary Tash to Osh
If you need to change Tajik somoni or buy Tajik somoni, the only place you can do this in Osh is located on this street. Bear in mind that the exchange rate is very poor, so expect to lose quite a bit of value.
The exchange rates aren’t great for Tajik Somoni – outside the various exchanges you can find their exchange rate listed on a board
Accommodation
Asman Guesthouse – the proprietor, Mr Thali, was an interesting character. He was always happy to chat over breakfast. He lived in London for 6 months recently with his daughter and his level of English is very good. Every morning he made a different Kyrgyz breakfast which was interesting to try. His house is set back from the street which means that it’s more secluded and peaceful. Overall a good place to rest.
Activities
Walking tour via Best of Osh – this was our first walking tour in Central Asia and we were excited to be able to speak to a guide and ask all of our burning questions. Stops included the Russian Orthodox Church (strangely the groundskeeper presented me with some walnuts he’d picked as a gift. I wasn’t really sure what to think, only that I had no idea how I was going to crack them And that they might look suspicious if I went through any international borders), towering Lenin monument situated on the aptly named Lenin Avenue, peace bell in the Park of Mother’s Tears and Monument to Alymbek Datka. Osh is a fairly low-key city with few notable attractions, and this tour was a good way to learn about the city and see things that would’ve otherwise been missed.
Lenin welcomes you with open arms to the city of Osh
The gate-keeper giving me walnuts outside the Russian Orthodox Church
Sulaiman Too – by far the most notable tourist attraction in Osh, it is impossible to miss this huge imposing monolith in the centre of the city. For thousands of years across various faiths and dynasties the mountain has been considered sacred and a place for rituals. There is a small entry fee and you can then make the easy climb up the stairs to the top. Atop the hill, as well as the great views you can also find a small mosque built by Bobur, who later became founder of the Mughal Empire in India. The mountain is dotted with caves and you still can find plenty of pilgrims and various rituals taking place, such as women sliding down a particular section of rock to increase their fertility. There is also a museum, which was closed when we visited.
Outside Sulaiman-Too and the fertility rock at the top of Sulaiman-Too
The museum at Sulaiman-Too sadly wasn’t open when we were there
Foodie Places
Borsok Restaurant – serving Western-style food including pizza and hamburgers. Good value for money although the food took a very long time to arrive.
Malen’kaya Yaponiya Osh – our number one favorite sushi place in Osh. There are no major bodies of water nearby but the sushi here was great. We picked a sushi platter and it was fantastic price and quality and served very quickly to us.
Dve Palochki – our second favourite sushi place in Osh. They have private booths where you can close the curtain and enjoy privacy.
Enjoying our private booth at Dve Palochki
After our time in Osh, we took the short bus journey to Andijan in Uzbekistan!